Helmut Newton, the German-Australian photographer, was born 100 years ago today.
Newton was a "prolific, widely imitated fashion photographer whose provocative, erotically charged black-and-white photos were a mainstay of Vogue and other publications."
Born in Berlin, Newton’s family was Jewish. He was interested in photography from the age of 12, when he purchased his first camera. He worked for the German photographer, Yva (Elsie Neulander Simon), from 1936.
The increasingly oppressive restrictions placed on Jews by the Nuremberg laws meant that his father lost control of the factory in which he manufactured buttons and buckles. He was briefly placed in a concentration camp on "Kristallnacht" in 1938, which finally compelled the family to leave Germany.
Newton's parents fled to South America. He was issued a passport just after turning 18, and left Germany in December, 1938. At Trieste, he boarded the Conte Rosso ocean liner, along with about 200 others escaping the Nazis. He intended to journey to China.
After arriving in Singapore, he found he was able to remain there, first and briefly as a photographer for the Straits Times and then as a portrait photographer.
Newton was interned by British authorities while in Singapore, and was sent to Australia on board the Queen Mary, arriving in Sydney in 1940. Internees travelled to the camp at Tatura, Victoria by train under armed guard.
He was released from internment in 1942, and briefly worked as a fruit picker in Northern Victoria. In April, 1942, he enlisted with the Australian Army and worked as a truck driver. After the war in 1945, he became a British subject and changed his name to Newton in 1946.
In 1948, he married actress, June Browne, who performed under the stage name June Brunell. She later became a successful photographer under the pseudonym, Alice Springs.
In 1946, Newton set up a studio in fashionable Flinders Lane in Melbourne and worked on fashion and theatre photography in the affluent post-war years. He shared his first joint exhibition in May, 1953 with Wolfgang Sievers, a German refugee like himself who had also served in the same company.
The exhibition of New Visions in Photography was displayed at the Federal Hotel in Collins Street and was probably the first glimpse of “New Objectivity” photography in Australia.
Newton went into partnership with Henry Talbot, a fellow German Jew who had also been interned at Tatura, and his association with the studio continued even after 1957, when he left Australia for London. The studio was renamed “Helmut Newton and Henry Talbot.”
Newton settled in Paris in 1961 and focused on work as a fashion photographer. His photos appeared in magazines including, most significantly, French Vogue and Harper's Bazaar. He established a particular style marked by erotic, stylized scenes, often with sado-masochistic and fetishistic subtexts.
A heart attack in 1970 slowed Newton's output, but his notoriety continued to increase, most notably with his 1980 "Big Nudes" series, which marked the pinnacle of his erotic-urban style, underpinned with excellent technical skills. Newton also worked in portraiture and more fantastical studies.
Newton shot a number of pictorials for Playboy, including pictorials of Nastassja Kinski and Kristine DeBell.
He was in an accident in 2004, when his car sped out of control and hit a wall in the driveway of LA’s Chateau Marmont Hotel, which had for several years served as his residence. He died at Cedars-Sinai Medical Center. His ashes are buried next to Marlene Dietrich at the Städtischer Friedhof III in Berlin.
Photo at the top by Volker Hinz
Woman and Dog, 1982 (for Pomellato, the Milanese jewelry brand)
Photo by Helmut Newton